Week 5 at Il Baciarino has been a perfect balance of work and play, with just 12 days left to take it all in. High above the hills of Maremma, this place has been more than just a backdrop—it’s shaped the way I experience Tuscany. Mornings start with mist rolling over the olive trees, afternoons are spent firing, throwing, and cleaning up clay while weekends are for exploring medieval towns. Every moment here feels connected to the land, the history, and the creative process.
Soda Firing: Flame, Vapor, and Texture
Late last week, we conducted a soda firing, an atmospheric process where sodium carbonate is introduced into the kiln at high temperatures. The soda combines with the silica in the clay body, creating a natural glaze with rich, unpredictable textures. The process leaves behind a signature orange-peel effect and variations in color, making each piece one-of-a-kind. The results were stunning, with the surfaces revealing a depth that only fire and vapor can achieve.
Market Day in Grosseto
On Thursday, we visited the weekly market in Grosseto, an experience in itself. Busy with locals, the market is a vibrant mix of produce, handcrafted goods, and weird Italian fashion finds (always sparkly). The town itself is industrial and has an interesting old center, most of it is working class. The heart of Maremma in southern Tuscany, Grosetto is a hidden gem with medieval walls, a stunning Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, and a lively historic center. Just a short drive from the Tyrrhenian coast, it offers access to Maremma Natural Park’s wild landscapes and the charming seaside towns of Marina di Grosseto and Castiglione della Pescaia. Known for its Etruscan history, rustic cuisine, and Morellino di Scansano wine, Grosseto is a blend of history, nature, and authentic Tuscan culture.
Throwing Big and Small
In the studio, I’ve been working on both large and small pieces. The larger works will remain here for my upcoming show at the Museo Anthropologico in Vetulonia on February 26th, while the smaller ones are travel-friendly and will be coming home with me. There’s a certain satisfaction in creating pieces that can be shared across continents, carrying the experience with them.
The Enchantment of Pitigliano and Saturnia
Venturing beyond the studio, we traveled to the ancient town of Pitigliano, a stunning hilltop village that dates back to 2300 BC and is home to the impressive Medici aqueduct. The town seems to rise organically from the tufa rock, its winding alleyways and warm stone facades exuding timelessness. Nearby, Saturnia’s natural hot springs offered a different kind of wonder—warm, cascading thermal pools where the water has flowed for millennia, offering both relaxation and a deep connection to the land.
Saturday Night in Vetulonia: Local Community
One of the week's most memorable moments was Saturday night at Il Ritrovo di Bes in Vetulonia. Surrounded by locals and accompanied by Work Away travelers, we found ourselves in an impromptu singalong of John Denver and Britany Spears songs. The tiny 8-seat establishment featured local gin and the small gathering space full of neighbors made us feel like we were locals—with music and flowing Negronis bridging the language gap.
Aperitivo on the Veranda
After a long week of firing and wandering, I did what I know how to do best, I had a potluck at my cottage. I will never tire of enjoying an aperitivo on the veranda as the sun sets.
But what exactly is aperitivo?
The History of Aperitivo
Aperitivo is more than just a pre-dinner drink; it’s an Italian tradition dating back to the 18th century. Originating in Turin, the concept was introduced by Antonio Benedetto Carpano, the inventor of vermouth. The idea was simple: a low-alcohol, bitter drink to stimulate the appetite before a meal. Over time, it evolved into a social ritual, where friends gather over spritzes, negronis, and light food, transitioning between day and evening.
As I move into my final weeks here, I’m enjoying every moment—each firing, each new process, each shared meal. The countdown to my show is on, and the work continues. Stay tuned for a few more updates!
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